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The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
A paperback edition of successful and well reviewed 1995 graduate text on applied mathematics for engineers.
In many physical problems several scales are present in space or time, caused by inhomogeneity of the medium or complexity of the mechanical process. A fundamental approach is to first construct micro-scale models, and then deduce the macro-scale laws and the constitutive relations by properly averaging over the micro-scale. The perturbation method of multiple scales can be used to derive averaged equations for a much larger scale from considerations of the small scales. In the mechanics of multiscale media, the analytical scheme of upscaling is known as the Theory of Homogenization.The authors share the view that the general methods of homogenization should be more widely understood and pra...
With the beautiful, powerful, and sexy Madame Chiang Kai-shek at the center of one of the great dramas of the twentieth century, this is the story of the founding of modern China, starting with a revolution that swept away more than 2,000 years of monarchy, followed by World War II, and ending in the eventual loss to the Communists and exile in Taiwan. An epic historical tapestry, this wonderfully wrought narrative brings to life what Americans should know about China -- the superpower we are inextricably linked with -- the way its people think and their code of behavior, both vastly different from our own. The story revolves around this fascinating woman and her family: her father, a peasan...
Water wave kinematics is a central field of study in ocean and coastal engineering. The wave forces on structures as well as sand erosion both on coastlines and in the ocean are to a large extent governed by the local distribution of velocities and accelerations of the water particles. Our knowledge of waves has generally been derived from measurements of the water surface elevations. The reason for this is that the surface elevations have been of primary interest and fairly cheap and reliable instruments have been developed for such measurements. The water wave kinematics has then been derived from the surface elevation information by various theories. However. the different theories for th...
Publisher description
This third volume in the series is devoted to presenting and interpreting the metallurgical evidence from Ban Chiang, northeast Thailand, in the broader regional context. Because the production of metal artifacts must engage numerous communities in order to acquire and process the raw materials and then create and distribute products, understanding metals in past societies requires a regional perspective. This is the first book to compile, summarize, and synthesize the English-language copper production and exchange evidence available so far from Thailand and Laos in a thorough and systematic manner. Chapters by Vincent C. Pigott and Thomas O. Pryce examine in detail the mining and smelting ...
Waves on Beaches and Resulting Sediment Transport documents the proceedings of an Advanced Seminar held in October, 1971, aiming to offer a coherent, interdisciplinary view of the state of physical research in coastal oceanography and the direction in which this subject is moving. The articles range from wave refraction to littoral erosion, and the authors from geologists to mathematicians. The book opens with a study on the characteristics of wave records in the coastal zone. This is followed by separate chapters on sediment transport in beaches; equations for water waves; small-amplitude normal oscillations of a liquid body; and wave behavior near caustics in models and in nature. Subsequent chapters deal with nonlinear wave interaction in a variety of physical phenomena including deep water waves; the study of longshore currents; sediment suspension by periodic waves; forms of sediment accumulation in the beach zone; run-up on beaches; and the wave breaking process in shallow water.
The thrilling story behind the American pilots who were secretly recruited to defend the nation’s desperate Chinese allies before Pearl Harbor and ended up on the front lines of the war against the Japanese in the Pacific. Sam Kleiner’s The Flying Tigers uncovers the hidden story of the group of young American men and women who crossed the Pacific before Pearl Harbor to risk their lives defending China. Led by legendary army pilot Claire Chennault, these men left behind an America still at peace in the summer of 1941 using false identities to travel across the Pacific to a run-down airbase in the jungles of Burma. In the wake of the disaster at Pearl Harbor this motley crew was the first...
Non-linear behaviour of water waves has recently drawn much attention of scientists and engineers in the fields of oceanography, applied mathematics, coastal engineering, ocean engineering, naval architecture, and others. The IUTAM Symposium on Non-linear Water Waves was organized with the aim of bringing together researchers who are actively studying non-linear water waves from various viewpoints. The papers contained in this book are related to the generation and deformation of non-linear water waves and the non-linear interaction between waves and bodies. That is, various types of non-linear water waves were analyzed on the basis of various well-known equations, experimental studies on breaking waves were presented, and numerical studies of calculating second-order non-linear wave-body interaction were proposed.