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Hermann Buhl
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Lonely Challenge
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Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage
In 1953 Hermann Buhl made the first ascent of Nanga Parbat - the ninth-highest mountain in the world, and the third 8,000-metre peak to be climbed, following Annapurna and Everest. It was one of the most incredible and committed climbs ever made. Continuing alone and without supplementary oxygen, Buhl made a dash for the summit after his partners turned back. On a mountain that had claimed thirty-one lives, an exhausted Buhl waded through deep snow and climbed over technical ground to reach the summit, driven on by an 'irresistible urge'. After a night spent standing on a small ledge at over 8,000 metres, Buhl returned forty-one hours later, exhausted and at the very limit of his endurance. Written shortly after Buhl's return from the mountain, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage is a classic of mountaineering literature that has inspired thousands of climbers. It follows Buhl's inexorable rise from rock climber to alpinist to mountaineer, until, almost inevitably, he makes his phenomenal Nanga Parbat climb. Buhl's book, and ascent, reminded everyone that, while the mountains could never be conquered, they could be climbed with sufficient enthusiasm, spirit and dedication.
Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage
In 1953 Hermann Buhl made the first ascent of Nanga Parbat -- the ninth-highest mountain in the world, and the third 8,000-metre peak to be climbed, following Annapurna and Everest. It was one of the most incredible and committed climbs ever made. Continuing alone and without supplementary oxygen, Buhl made a dash for the summit after his partners turned back. On a mountain that had claimed thirty-one lives, an exhausted Buhl waded through deep snow and climbed over technical ground to reach the summit, driven on by an 'irresistible urge'. After a night spent standing on a small ledge at over 8,000 metres, Buhl returned forty-one hours later, exhausted and at the very limit of his endurance. Written shortly after Buhl's return from the mountain, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage is a classic of mountaineering literature that has inspired thousands of climbers. It follows Buhl's inexorable rise from rock climber to alpinist to mountaineer, until, almost inevitably, he makes his phenomenal Nanga Parbat climb. Buhl's book, and ascent, reminded everyone that, while the mountains could never be conquered, they could be climbed with sufficient enthusiasm, spirit and dedication.
Broad Peak
The ascent of Broad Peak, the world's twelfth highest mountain in 1957 was one of the most important climbs in the history of climbing on the great peaks. A team of four Austrians, carrying their own equipment and dispensing with bottled oxygen, took the climbing ideas of the European Alps to the Himalayas/Karakoram, an advance in tactics which laid the foundations for many of the great ascents which followed. As well as being a landmark, the expedition also resulted in the death of Hermann Buhl, at that time the most famous climber in the world. This book, written by Marcus Schmuck, the leader of the expedition, was never translated from its German original, so the Broad Peak expedition was...
"Mountain of Destiny"
A study of how Nanga Parbat, the ninth-highest peak on earth, became the German "mountain of the mind."
Nanga Parbat
Nanga Parbat, The Killer Mountain, is the ninth highest mountain in the world and second highest peak in Pakistan. The Sanskrit word parvata means mountain rocks and nanga means bare, in reference to the exposed rock buttresses of the south face.The north face is equally intimidating but in contrast to the south face's steep rock and ice, the snowy north face is guarded by a broad barrier of seracs that extend the width of the mountain.
The White Spider
A classic of mountaineering literature, this is the story of the harrowing first ascent of the North Face of the Eiger, the most legendary and terrifying climb in history.
Chogolisa
Chogolisa, the world's 36th highest peak, lies near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region of the Karakoram. Its four ridges, of which three have been been climbed, culminate in the two summits. The peak is highly exposed to winds with deep snow. Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest rises above the south face (Chogolisa I) to 7,665m (25,148ft). The second highest, 7,654m, on the northeast side (Chogolisa II), was named Bride Peak by Martin Conway in 1892.
