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Jerzy Kukuczka, the 8000m Peaks.
Jerzy Kukuczka, 2nd ascent of all the 8000m peaks.
My Vertical World is the story of a quiet family man from Silesia who was also a single-minded schemer, sailing close to the bureaucratic wind in Poland as well as Pakistan and Nepal, painting factory chimneys and thinking of Lhotse, juggling for most of the time with meagre hard currency, scarce food and indifferent gear to achieve the starting point western climbers took for granted. Slow to acclimatise, once he had done, Kukuczka's stamina and drive were formidable. Preferring where possible to climb alpine-style with one companion, among his more remarkable achievements are his solo ascent of a new route on Makalu; a first traverse of the North and Middle Summits of Broad Peak; climbing two 8000-metre peaks over 3000 kilometres apart in winter within twenty-five days; and making a new route up the middle of the South Face of K2 as a two-man team. His narrative takes the reader behind the catalogue of achievements to discover a diffident man, anxious for his good name, sobered by loss of friends, who can still view the antics of the international climbing circus with good humour, and climbed because his passion for his vertical world was an enveloping as it was infectious.
Jerzy Kukuczka, born on 24th March 1948, in Katowice, Poland was an alpine and high-altitude climber. Born in Katowice. On 18th September 1987, he became the second man, after Reinhold Messner, to climb all 14 of the world's 8000m peaks; a feat which took him less than 8 years to accomplish. He is the only person in the world who has climbed two 8000ers in one winter. Altogether, he ascended 4 8000ers in winter, including 3 as first ascents. Along with Tadeusz Piotrowski, Kukuczka established a new route on K2 in alpine style (the so-called "Polish Line"), which no one has repeated.
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K2 is the second highest mountain in the world, at 8611 metres only a couple of hundred metres lower than Everest. It is one of the most unrelenting and testing of the worlds 8000-metre peaks. Jim Curran came to K2 as a climbing cameraman with an unsuccessful British expedition, but stayed on through the climbing season. This is his account of the dramatic events of that summer, a story of ambitions both achieved and thwarted on a mountain which all high-altitude climbers take the most pride in overcoming. In 1986 K2 took its toll of those ambitions. Curran vividly describes the moments that contribute to the exhilaration of climbing on the world's most demanding mountain, and he assesses the tragedy of that summer with compassion and impartiality.
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CLICK HERE to download the first chapter from Freedom Climbers (Provide us with a little information and we'll send your download directly to your inbox) "One of the most important mountaineering books to be written for many years." —Boardman-Tasker Prize See this book trailer for Freedom Climbers made by RMB Books, its publisher in Canada, where the cover is slightly different from the Mountaineers Books U.S. edition * Behind the Iron Curtain, Cold War mountaineers found freedom on the world's highest peaks—and paid an awful price to achieve it * Winner of the Boardman-Tasker Prize, Banff Grand Prize, and American Alpine Club Literary Award Freedom Climbers tells the story of Poland's t...