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Dressing Up
How wealthy American women--as consumers and as influencers--helped shape French couture of the late nineteenth century; lavishly illustrated. French fashion of the late nineteenth century is known for its allure, its ineffable chic--think of John Singer Sargent's Madame X and her scandalously slipping strap. For Parisian couturiers and their American customers, it was also serious business. In Dressing Up, Elizabeth Block examines the couturiers' influential clientele--wealthy American women who bolstered the French fashion industry with a steady stream of orders from the United States. Countering the usual narrative of the designer as solo creative genius, Block shows that these women--as ...
American Material Culture
The use of objects as source materials for scholarship has been increasingly legitimized by the growth of American Studies programs which are now in the forefront in their work with objects. The use of the museum as a primary resource is currently being given a position of increasing importance in American Studies scholarship.
Reforming Women's Fashion, 1850-1920
This work focuses on the efforts toward reforming women's dress that took place in Europe and America in the latter half of the 18th century and the first decade of the 20th century, and the types of garments adopted by women to overcome the challenges posed by fashionable dress. It considers the many advocates for reform and examines their motives, their arguments for change, and how they promoted improvements in women's fashion. Though there was no single overarching dress reform movement, it reveals similarities among the arguments posed by diverse groups of reformers, including especially the equation of reform with an ideal image of improved health. Drawing on a variety of primary and secondary sources in the USA and Europe - including the popular press, advice books for women, allopathic and alternative medical literature, and books on aesthetics, art, health, and physical education - the text makes a significant contribution to costume studies, social history, and women's studies.
Global Trade and Cultural Authentication
Global Trade and Cultural Authentication, edited by Joanne Eicher, showcases the complexity and enduring aesthetic and ingenuity of Kalabari artisans. The Kalabari people, most of whom make their homes in the eastern Niger Delta region of western Africa, are renowned for the artistry in working with globally imported textiles and dress for centuries. The 22 essays in this edited volume feature the work of leading Nigerian and American scholars and offer an in-depth, nuanced understanding of Kalabari textiles, aesthetics, and engagement with past and present global trade networks. Using dress and textiles as a lens, Global Trade and Cultural Authentication explores the Kalabari people's centuries-long role in the global trade arena. Their economic interconnectedness demonstrates that Africa was never a "dark continent" but, rather, critically involved in a global trade built around Kalabari resourcefulness and imagination.
The Collections of the Cincinnati Art Museum
''The museum companion spanning 5,000 years of art, this handbook to the Cincinnati Art Museum effectively takes the reader on an expansive tour of the Museum and discusses its history and the collection. Museums, libraries, collectors and researchers will find it an invaluable resource.''--
Fashion from Victoria to the New Millennium, Second Edition
This survey of EuroAmerican fashion and style includes a detailed, thoroughly illustrated chronology of women’s, men’s, and children’s dress since 1800. Each chapter covers in detail virtually all categories of clothing, including day attire, evening dress, outerwear, sportswear and swimwear, undergarments, sleepwear, accessories, footwear, hats, hairstyles and grooming, and more. Over 1,000 illustrations visually document the past 200 years of fashion and style. Each era is introduced with an overview of the history and cultural developments that impacted modern fashion.
Slaves of One Master
In this wide-ranging history of the African diaspora and slavery in Arabia in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, Matthew S. Hopper examines the interconnected themes of enslavement, globalization, and empire and challenges previously held conventions regarding Middle Eastern slavery and British imperialism. Whereas conventional historiography regards the Indian Ocean slave trade as fundamentally different from its Atlantic counterpart, Hopper’s study argues that both systems were influenced by global economic forces. The author goes on to dispute the triumphalist antislavery narrative that attributes the end of the slave trade between East Africa and the Persian Gulf to the effo...
Shaping Visions in U.S.-American Magazines
Between 1890 and 1920, white U.S. American women experienced unprecedented sociopolitical changes – a dynamic era vividly captured but also creatively and profoundly shaped by successful female illustrators within a burgeoning magazine market. This study highlights five groundbreaking, yet largely forgotten, artists – Rose O'Neill, Nell Brinkley, May Wilson Preston, Jessie Willcox Smith, and Alice Beach Winter. Their work for mass and little magazines reached and inspired a large female readership, while participating in broader dialogues about women’s roles in society. Four case studies explore the creative possibilities of visual-textual expression across magazine covers, advice columns, advertisements, and illustrated serials. "Shaping Visions" not only chronicles an important era for visual and periodical culture but also makes a compelling case for recognizing female illustrators alongside male contemporaries like Charles Dana Gibson. Featuring previously unexplored illustrations, this book offers scholars and enthusiasts of art history, gender, or media studies fresh insights into the intersections of art, femininity, and magazines at the dawn of the twentieth century.
Women and the Republican Party, 1854-1924
Acclaimed as groundbreaking since its publication, Women and the Republican Party, 1854-1924 explores the forces that propelled women to partisan activism in an era of widespread disfranchisement and provides a new perspective on how women fashioned their political strategies and identities before and after 1920. Melanie Susan Gustafson examines women's partisan history against the backdrop of women's political culture. Contesting the accepted notion that women were uninvolved in political parties before gaining the vote, Gustafson reveals the length and depth of women's partisan activism between the founding of the Republican Party, whose abolitionist agenda captured the loyalty of many women, and the passage of the Nineteenth Amendment. Her account also looks at the complex interplay of partisan and nonpartisan activity; the fierce debates among women about how to best use their influence; the ebb and flow of enthusiasm for women's participation; and the third parties that fused the civic world of reform organizations with the electoral world of voting and legislation.
The East India Company's London Workers
Positions the English East India Company at the center of the early 19th century London economy. Analyzes the composition of the warehouse workforce and explores laborers' work experiences through case histories.
