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20th-Century Dress in the United States
The 20th Century was a fast-paced race into modernization-but how did it affect what we wear? From revolutionary politics to the new machine age, from war and depression to growth and prosperity, 20th-Century Dress in the United States shows how fashion goes hand-in-hand with history. The authors examine American dress from 1898 to 2004 and find innovation at every turn. Diversity and complexity are key: far from the fashion stereotypes embodied by popular ideas of "the Twenties" or "the Sixties"-periods noted for their youthful upheaval and influence-we see how every era has its conformists and rebels, from the Arrow Collar Man and the Gibson Girl to flappers, bell-bottom-clad hippies, and Jackie Kennedy. Each chapter explores the social, cultural, economic, artistic, and technological themes that shape fashion in both festive and everyday clothing. Changes in retailing and manufacturing are also examined, from the sweatshops of yesterday to the Internet shopping of today. From high fashion to low, glitz to grunge, this vivid and comprehensive book explains what we wear on our backs-and why.
Uplift
Over the years the bra has been stereotyped as an object of seduction, glamour, and even oppression. In Uplift: A History of the Bra in America Jane Farrell-Beck and Colleen Gau use this item of clothing to gauge the social history of women and to understand the business history of fashion. Viewing fashion as a means to entertainment, self-creation, and everyday art, the authors illuminate the effect the brassiere has had on women's lives—their style, health, and economic opportunity. Rich in examples from advertising, movies, and other areas of popular culture, Uplift moves beyond featherbones and fiberfill to provide a sense of the dynamic relationship of the bra to wider issues in society.
The History of Costume
A history of costume and fashion, from ancient times to today. Includes examples of costume, or dress, from: Mesopotamia; Egypt; Crete, Mycenae, and Greece; Etruria and Rome; the Byzantine Empire; Western Europe through the eleventh century; and around the world through the twentieth century.
Selling Style
"Schorman demonstrates in this readable study of 1890s U.S. society how fashion—which he defines as clothing everyone wears and the symbolic system connected to its choice—reflects the cultural dynamics caused by rapid social change and remnants of past attitudes."—Choice
Female Adolescent Sexuality in the United States, 1850–1965
This book examines the history of female adolescent sexuality in the United States from the middle of the nineteenth century until the beginning of the 1960s. The book analyzes both adult perceptions of female adolescent sexuality and the experiences of female adolescents themselves. It examines what girls knew (or thought they knew) about sex at different points in time, girls’ sexual experiences, girls' ideas about love and romance, female adolescent beauty culture, and the influence of popular culture on female adolescent sexuality. It also examines the ways in which adults responded to female adolescent sexuality and the efforts of adults to either control or encourage girls' interest in sexual topics, dating, girls’ participation in beauty culture, and their education on sexual topics. The book describes a trajectory along which female adolescents went from being perceived as inherently innocent and essentially asexual to being regarded (and feared) as primarily sexual in nature.
Nursing History Review, Volume 9, 2001
ìLong neglected, the history of nursing has recently become the focus of a considerable amount of attention. Over the past decade, developments in the history of medicine, the history of women ó particularly of womenís work ó and nursing itself have resulted in a new recognition of the importance of the subject. As the official journal of the American Association for the History of Nursing, Nursing History Review enables those interested in nursing and health care history to trace new and developing work in the field. The Review publishes significant scholarly work in all aspects of nursing history as well as reviews of recent books and updates on national and international activities in...
Food is Love
"An engaging look at how food advertisements from the twentieth and twenty-first centuries have both helped define and played up to the stereotypical gender roles prevalent in American culture."--Library Journal
Medieval Clothing and Textiles
This volume focuses largely on the British Isles, with papers on dress terms in two major works of literature, the Welsh Mabinogion and the Middle English Pearl; a study of a 13th-century royal bride's trousseau.
Wearable Objects and Curative Things
This book explores the intersections between wearable objects and human health, with particular emphasis on how artists and designers are creatively responding to and rethinking these relations. Addressing a rich range of wearable artefacts, from mobility aids and prosthetics to clothing and accessories to digital health tracking devices, its themes include care and cure; wellness culture and the commoditization of health; and the complex interactions between (human) bodies and (non-human) objects. With a theoretical framework inspired by the work of materialist thinkers including Sherry Turkle, Bruno Latour and Jane Bennett, and bringing the disciplinary fields of fashion studies, art and design practice, and medical and health humanities into dialogue for the first time, this volume draws attention to the complex agencies entangled in the things we wear, and situates fashion and art in relation to broader cultural and historical contexts of health, illness and disability.
Black Judas
William Hannibal Thomas (1843-1935) served with distinction in the U.S. Colored Troops in the Civil War (in which he lost an arm) and was a preacher, teacher, lawyer, state legislator, and journalist following Appomattox. In many publications up through the 1890s, Thomas espoused a critical though optimistic black nationalist ideology. After his mid-twenties, however, Thomas began exhibiting a self-destructive personality, one that kept him in constant trouble with authorities and always on the run. His book The American Negro (1901) was his final self-destructive act. Attacking African Americans in gross and insulting language in this utterly pessimistic book, Thomas blamed them for the con...
