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A jaw-dropping photographic display of the world of big wave surfing, featuring the biggest and most dangerous waves and the legendary men and women who risk their lives to surf them. Over the last decade, a handful of surfers have been progressing the sport of big wave surfing to new extremes. Kai Lenny, one of the preeminent big wave surfers, offers readers a glimpse into this world. Lenny shares his personal stories and perspectives, and invites over 30 elite surfers—from legends who pioneered the way, to young guns who are the future of the sport—to contribute personal tales of the greatest waves ever ridden. These are the stories we’ve been waiting for: Shane Dorian pushing the bo...
An action sports adventurer’s bucket list of exciting and unexpected destinations around the globe as lived and told by iconic surfers, skaters, climbers, and riders. An unconventional photographic guidebook to adventure, featuring images, intel, itineraries, tales, and testimonies collected by Roark’s expert guides. The book documents the routes of a group of iconic surfers, climbers, skaters, and other adventurers seeking full cultural and thrill-seeking immersion. Including journeys to 16 global destinations illustrating the road less traveled, from surf expeditions to Iceland, the Falkland Islands, or Jamaica, to motorcycle journeys through Nepal, rock climbing in Argentina to cliff jumping in Northern Vietnam, and more. World-renowned photographers Chris Burkard, Dylan Gordon, Jeff Johnson, Drew Smith, and Chris McPherson uniquely capture faraway images and the wayward spirit of those that seek adventure—if not a little danger—in an increasingly tame world. The modern bible for anyone interested in charting an adventure with improbable itineraries across the globe, or the mere appreciation for photography that transports you to a place only found in dreams.
For centuries, the ocean waters of the Atlantic have impacted the daily lives of those on the South Carolina coast. Beginning in the 1960s, those waves caught the imagination of young beachgoers who studied magazines and Super 8 films and refined their moves on rent-a-floats until the first surfboards became available in the area. The buildup to the Vietnam War brought GIs and their families from the West Coast and Hawaii to South Carolina, and their surfboards came along with them. Unbeknownst to each other, local surfers concentrated in the beach and military base areas of Beaufort/Hilton Head, Charleston, and Pawley's Island/Grand Strand began to conquer nearby surf breaks. When contests finally brought these groups together, a statewide sport was born.
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Over its six decades in print (1960-2020) the legendary Surfer magazine was considered to be the bible of surfing and surf culture. This carefully curated anthology, showcasing the best covers and interior pages serves as a quintessential reference guide to the history of surfing, surf style and design. Founded in 1960 by surfer, artist, and filmmaker John Severson, Surfer was the longest continuously published surf magazine, referred to as “the bible of the sport.” Surfer was firmly established as the sport’s leading voice, serving as a template for a small but growing number of surf magazines around the world. Featuring a mix of travel articles, contest reporting, surf spot profiles,...
A deep look into the surf therapy movement, the therapists at the forefront of this radical new treatment, and its many applications for treating anxiety, PTSD, and more. Surfing? As a form of therapy? It’s not just possible—it’s powerful. Surf therapy is an emerging field with promising results which aims to address the mental, physical and emotional epidemics of the modern age. In Surf Therapy, author Cash Lambert paddles out with today’s leading surf therapy practitioners and surf therapy organizations to discover how surfing is changing lives for the better. See how much surf therapy can help in treating: • Drug addiction and addiction recovery • Children and adults diagnosed with autism • Social development of at-risk inner-city children • Physical disabilities like spinal cord injuries • PTSD in active-duty police officers • Terminal illnesses like cystic fibrosis • Women recovering from abusive living situations With interviews from today’s leading surf therapy practitioners and data from groundbreaking studies, Surf Therapy is a story of science, resilience, and the lengths that humans will go to help one another in need.
“Stand up, up, UP!” is the mantra of Surfers for Autism, an organization that runs surf events for children with autism, providing the opportunity to not only catch waves, but to become part of a supportive surfing community. It is also a message to all those struggling with autism: a message to stand up, no matter how hard it gets. Waves of Healing collects the stories of a group of everyday families who discovered Surfers for Autism in their search for hope, answers, and healing for their children with autism. These are stories about the struggles children with autism face—the struggle to stand on a surfboard, the struggle to communicate, the struggle to make progress in a world which accepts “normal” and rejects all else. But they’re also stories of breakthroughs, of authentic joy and unbridled excitement as they learn to see their world from a whole new perspective—standing tall atop a surfboard, riding a wave all their own. Exploring new avenues of therapy for those with autism, with therapeutic and extraordinary results, Waves of Healing is a snapshot of hope, courage, and human perseverance.
'At only 33, Hayden Cox is one of the surf industry's most successful and innovative businessmen. He revolutionised design by creating the Hypto Krypto, an initially weird-looking surfboard that has become the biggest selling model in world surfing history' -- The Australian 'Hayden is like a hip quantum physicist. He buzzes with numbers, degrees, fibre weaves and parabolas' -- Surfing Magazine 'A young Australian inventor who has reshaped surfboard technology for the better' -- GQ Magazine This book is about creating something -- no matter your passion, age or industry. Behind every innovative product there is a creator, a vision and a story. New Wave Vision centres around Hayden Cox's stor...
For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on earth, for surfing’s Triple Crown competition. Chas Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca. With Hunter-esque journalist Smith throwing himself into the centre of the action, this is a sun-bleached, breakneck account of power, money, crime, and surfing. ‘Love him or hate him, he’s the most stylish writer [surfing] has seen for decades.’ —Fred Pawle, the Australian ‘Abso...