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Sorting Out Clothes
What can one city tell us about the global textile waste problem? Sorting Out Clothes is the first detailed ethnography of clothing waste infrastructures that starts where the problem starts – the Global North. Based on more than 100 interviews, cultural anthropologist Heike Derwanz follows the journey of fast fashion in Hamburg, Germany: starting with two women from different socio-economic backgrounds sorting through their wardrobes, travelling through local flea markets, eBay, church clothes banks, upcycling brands and recycling sites, only to end up in homes and waste heaps in the Global South. Bringing together human agents such as designers, social workers and vintage sellers with objects from containers, plastic sacks and internet platforms to piles of sorted textiles, this on-the-ground cultural study reveals how the global economic system of fast fashion shapes local infrastructures entangled in everyday lives. Combining material culture, waste studies and economic perspectives to scrutinize the so-called circular economy of today's global textile recycling market, Derwanz investigates what agency modern consumers really have in the lifecycle of their clothes.
Life and Money
Life and Money uncovers the contentious history of the boundary between economy and politics in liberalism. Ute Tellmann traces the shifting ontologies for defining economic necessity. She argues that our understanding of the malleability of economic relations has been displaced by colonial hierarchies of civilization and the biopolitics of the nation. Bringing economics into conversation with political theory, cultural economy, postcolonial thought, and history, Tellmann gives a radically novel interpretation of scarcity and money in terms of materiality, temporality, and affect. The book investigates the conceptual shifts regarding economic order during two moments of profound crisis in th...
Teaching and Learning Sustainable Consumption
This book is a comprehensive guide on how to teach sustainable consumption in higher education. Teaching and Learning Sustainable Consumption: A Guidebook systematizes the themes, objectives, and theories that characterize sustainable consumption as an educational field. The first part of the book discusses approaches to teaching and learning sustainable consumption in higher education, including reflections on how learning occurs, to more practical considerations like how to set objectives or assess learning outcomes. The second part of the book is a dive into inspiring examples of what this looks like in a range of contexts and towards different aims – involving 57 diverse contributions ...
The Invention of ›Outsider Art‹
What does it mean to be called an ›Outsider‹? Marion Scherr investigates structural inequalities and the myth of the Other in Western art history, examining the role of ›Outsider Art‹ in contemporary art worlds in the UK. By shifting the focus from art world professionals to those labelled ›Outsider Artists‹, she counteracts one-sided representations of them being otherworldly, raw, and uninfluenced. Instead, the artists are introduced as multi-faceted individuals in constant exchange with their social environment, employing diverse strategies in dealing with their exclusion. The book reframes their voices and artworks as complex, serious and meaningful cultural contributions, and challenges their attested Otherness in favour of a more inclusive, all-encompassing understanding of art.
Urban Cosmopolitics
Invoking the notion of ‘cosmopolitics’ from Bruno Latour and Isabelle Stengers, this volume shows how and why cities constitute privileged sites for studying the search for and composition of common worlds of cohabitation. A cosmopolitical approach to the city focuses on the multiple assemblages of human and nonhuman actors that constitute urban common worlds, and on the conflicts and compromises that arise among different ways of assembling the city. It brings into view how urban worlds are always in the process of being subtly transformed, destabilized, decentred, questioned, criticized, or even destroyed. As such, it opens up novel questions as to the gradual and contested composition...
Inclusionary Housing and Urban Inequality in London and New York City
Municipalities around the world have increasingly used inclusionary housing programs to address their housing shortages. This book problematizes those programs in London and New York City by offering an empirical, research-based perspective on the socio-spatial dimensions of inclusionary housing approaches in both cities. The aim of those programs is to produce affordable housing and foster greater socio-economic inclusion by mandating or incentivizing private developers to include affordable housing units within their market-rate residential developments. The starting point of this book is the so-called “poor door” practice in London and New York City, which results in mixed-income deve...
Der Tod und das Ding
Textile Dinge sind vielseitige und allgegenwärtige Begleiter des Alltags. Sie prägen Erfahrungswelten und Körper; sie kommunizieren gesellschaftliche und individuelle Belange. Wie aber betreffen Tod und Vergänglichkeit diese dynamische Beziehung zwischen Mensch und – textiler – Materialität? Welche Potentiale bergen Kleidung, Textilien und Mode in diesem Kontext? Die Beiträge des Sammelbandes gehen diesen Fragen nach: Seine dreizehn Autor*innen begreifen Materielle Kultur als einen Gegenstandsbereich ihrer Disziplin und als eine spezifische Sicht auf die Kultur von Tod und Vergänglichkeit. (Textile) Materialitäten verleihen Ideen und Konzepten in diesen Kontexten eine verfügbare...
Critical Fabulations
A proposal to redefine design in a way that not only challenges the field's dominant paradigms but also changes the practice of design itself. In Critical Fabulations, Daniela Rosner proposes redefining design as investigative and activist, personal and culturally situated, responsive and responsible. Challenging the field's dominant paradigms and reinterpreting its history, Rosner wants to change the way we historicize the practice, reworking it from the inside. Focusing on the development of computational systems, she takes on powerful narratives of innovation and technology shaped by the professional expertise that has become integral to the field's mounting status within the new industrial economy. To do so, she intervenes in legacies of design, expanding what is considered "design" to include long-silenced narratives of practice, and enhancing existing design methodologies based on these rediscovered inheritances. Drawing on discourses of feminist technoscience, she examines craftwork's contributions to computing innovation--how craftwork becomes hardware manufacturing, and how hardware manufacturing becomes craftwork.
Eco-Friendly and Fair
The make-take-waste paradigm of fast fashion explains much of the producer and consumer behavior patterns towards fast fashion. The evolution from a two-season fashion calendar to fast fashion, characterized by rapid product cycles from retailers and impulse buying by consumers, presents new challenges to the environment, workplace and labour practices. This book provides a comprehensive overview of new insights into consumer behaviour mechanisms in order to shift practices toward sustainable fashion and to minimize the negative impacts of fast fashion on the environment and society. Concepts and techniques are presented that could overcome the formidable economic drivers of fast fashion and...
Circular Economies in an Unequal World
"This landmark first anthropological volume on the topic of 'circular economies' brings together a range of international scholars with regional specialisations in Europe, Africa, Asia, and South America to examine the concept's global implications. Aspirations towards circular economies have become increasingly prominent around the world, with the EU adopting an ambitious 'circular economy action plan', and China enshrining its own circular economy (xunhuan jingji) in law since 2008. Yet until now, social anthropology has largely neglected the potentially deep social impacts of this concept, focusing instead on metrics of waste, despite its obvious implications through every level of the ec...
