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Clothes Make the Character
"Clothes make the man" (or woman). This is especially true in early Hollywood silent films where a character's appearance could show an immense number of different things about them. For example, Theda Bara's role in A Fool There Was (1915) was known for her revealing clothing, seductive appearance, and being the first "Vamp." Wardrobe and costume design played a larger role in silent films than in modern movies. The character's clothes told the audience who they were and what their role was in the movie. In this in-depth analysis, the author provides examples and explanations about noteworthy characters who used their appearance to further their fame.
Medieval Art and the Look of Silent Film
The heyday of silent film soon became quaint with the arrival of "talkies." As early as 1929, critics and historians were writing of the period as though it were the distant past. Much of the literature on the silent era focuses on its filmic art--ambiance and psychological depth, the splendor of the sets and costumes--yet overlooks the inspiration behind these. This book explores the Middle Ages as the prevailing influence on costume and set design in silent film and a force in fashion and architecture of the era. In the wake of World War I, designers overthrew the artifice of prewar style and manners and drew upon what seemed a nobler, purer age to create an ambiance that reflected higher ideals.
Wartime Style
This work is a comparative study of the three "great" American wars of the 20th century: World War I, World War II and Vietnam. The book explores several aspects of American popular culture, like fashion, film and societal mores. While a number of books have covered fashion during individual wars, this is the first study to compare several major conflicts, drawing some conclusions regarding the lasting influences of wardrobe over an entire century. This book provides short background information for each war, briefly covering earlier conflicts that shaped the hostilities of the 20th century. Although the emphasis is on women's clothing, participation and service, men are not ignored. Their fashions not only speak to the times, but the enormity of their sacrifices.
Black Women Directors
For far too long, the cultural and historical narratives about film have overlooked the contributions of Black women directors. This book remedies this omission by highlighting the trajectory of the culturally significant work of Black women directors in the U.S., from the under-examined pioneers of the silent era to the contemporary Black women directors in Hollywood.
Women at Work from Ancient Egypt Through the Middle Ages
Even voracious readers are often unaware that women have worked outside the home from the earliest recorded history. A significant number of them have made names for themselves by being the first of either sex to do what they did. For example, the first musical composer we know of--Enheduanna of Sumeria, daughter of Sargon II. Or, even more astonishing, the first practitioners of Caesarian sections for a difficult birth (generally fatal for the mother but producing a live infant). Thoroughly illustrated with high-quality photographic images, this work fills a gap in popular history, detailing women at work from the dawn of civilization through to the Middle Ages. There are four appendices regarding objects of interest related indirectly (but importantly) to the text, as well as copious endnotes included with each chapter and a glossary of terms which may be unfamiliar to readers. For those who wish to pursue related topics, there is also a complete bibliography. A number of the women included in this work have been forgotten by history, even their real names unknown. All, however, have contributed generously to their respective societies and cultures.
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