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Made in Italy holds a highly significant position in the global luxury market, as an economic, cultural, and social phenomenon, and the textbook example of the country-of-origin effect. Whilst in the past luxury was conceptualized as an exclusive benefit of the few, it is now a highly diversified ecosystem with disruptive challenges to its identity and authenticity, led by new customer segments. This book – through an analysis of diverse cases – answers the key issues in the industry of the new Made in Italy luxury, with a particular focus on sustainability. The book provides an in-depth view into luxury Made in Italy, from historical roots, heritage, and tradition to major forces of cha...
The Origins of Italian Fashion examines the history of Italian fashion from the beginning of the twentieth century, when the Lombard tailor Rosa Genoni created the first Italian fashion house independent from the prevailing French style, to World War II, when the Fascist regime co-opted fashion as a propaganda tool. Illustrated with archive material from the designers and the earliest Italian fashion magazines, this book concentrates on the most important designers from the early years of Italian fashion. From Gabriella di Robilant, the Italian 'inventor' of sportswear fashion, to Salvatore Ferragamo and his famous orthopaedic shoes, to Elsa Schiaparelli, the first great protagonist of Italian style, these designers' influence continues to be felt today.
Tuscany is a landscape whose cultural construction is complicated and multi-layered. It is this very complexity that this book seeks to untangle. By revealing hidden histories, we learn how food, landscape and architecture are intertwined, as well as the extent to which Italian design and contemporary consumption patterns form a legacy that draws upon the Romantic longings of a century before. In the process, this book reveals the extent to which Tuscany has been constructed by Anglos — and what has been distorted, idealized and even overlooked in the process.
This is the first book written about Maria Monaci Gallenga (1880-1944), the enigmatic fashion artist and designer marginalized after decades of fortune and fame. The daughter of Ernesto Monaci, the illustrious philologist and mentor of Luigi Pirandello, Gallenga was the wife of Pietro Gallenga, a medical scientist related to the Gallenga Stuart family. The text outlines Maria Monaci Gallenga’s impact on the world of fashion, contextualizing her work and that of other forgotten fashion designers in the 1920s and 1930s. It sheds light on her cultural impact and idealism as a business entrepreneur in Europe and America promoting Italian art and culture. It also highlights her engagement in so...
During the era of the French revolution, patriots across Europe tried to introduce a national uniform. This book, the first comparative study of national uniform schemes, discusses case studies from Austria, Bulgaria, England, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, the Netherlands, Spain, Sweden, Turkey the United States, and Wales.
What the smallest detail of dress reveals about gender, sexuality, race, politics, and aesthetics.
Goods made or designed in Italy enjoy a profile which far outstrips the country's modest manufacturing output. Italy's glorious design heritage and reputation for style and innovation has 'added value' to products made in Italy. Since 1945, Italian design has commanded an increasing amount of attention from design journalists, critics and consumers. But is Italian design a victim of its own celebrity? Made in Italy brings together leading design historians to explore this question, discussing both the history and significance of design from Italy and its international influence. Addressing a wide range of Italian design fields, including car design, graphic design, industrial and interior design and ceramics, well-known designers such as Alberto Rosselli and Ettore Sottsass, Jr. and iconic brands such as Olivetti, Vespa and Alessi, the book explores the historical, cultural and social influences that shaped Italian design, and how these iconic designs have contributed to the modern canon of Italian-inspired goods.
Fashion, and the growth of fashion, are presented as the manifestation of a process of civilization, within a capitalist culture (capital understood as material possessions) that has become global and imperialist, of which - in an economic sense - the industry (or the fashion system?) functions as one of its main instruments of exploitation. And with respect to design, Arturo Escobar said: "Can design detach itself from its roots in modernist practices of unsustainability and defuturization and reorient itself towards other commitments, practices, narratives and ontological enactions? Moreover, can design be part of the toolkit for the transition to the pluriverze (i.e. a world in which many worlds can fit)?" This book presents the importance of cultural sustainability in the textiles and fashion industry, decolonizing fashion system and promotes the design for transitions.
The period covered is marked by several turning-points, such as the spread of iron technology, the introduction of innovative irrigation systems and the development of new forms of urbanization. In China, India and the Mediterranean, in Central America and in parts of South America, the so-called 'Classical cultures' rose. For the first time, science attempted to develop independently of myth and religion, as a new method to explain nature and human destiny. But this period also witnessed the rise of universal religions such as Buddhism, Hinduism, Christianity and, in the seventh century, Islam.
Families, Lovers, and their Letters takes us into the passionate hearts and minds of ordinary people caught in the heartbreak of transatlantic migration. It examines the experiences of Italian migrants to Canada and their loved ones left behind in Italy following the Second World War, when the largest migration of Italians to Canada took place. In a micro-analysis of 400 private letters, including three collections that incorporate letters from both sides of the Atlantic, Sonia Cancian provides new evidence on the bidirectional flow of communication during migration. She analyzes how kinship networks functioned as a means of support and control through the flow of news, objects, and persons; how gender roles in productive and reproductive spheres were reinforced as a means of coping with separation; and how the emotional impact of both temporary and permanent separation was expressed during the migration process. Cancian also examines the love letter as a specific form of epistolary exchange, a first in Italian immigrant historiography, revealing the powerful effect that romantic love had on the migration experience.