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Kimono
What is the kimono? Everyday garment? Art object? Symbol of Japan? As this book shows, the kimono has served all of these roles, its meaning changing across time and with the perspective of the wearer or viewer. Kimono: A Modern History begins by exposing the seventeenth- and eighteenth-century foundations of the modern kimono fashion industry. It explores the crossover between ‘art’ and ‘fashion’ in this period at the hands of famous Japanese painters who worked with clothing pattern books and painted directly onto garments. With Japan’s exposure to Western fashion in the nineteenth century, and Westerners’ exposure to Japanese modes of dress and design, the kimono took on new a...
Reading the Kimono in Twentieth-Century Japanese Literature and Film
Often considered an exotic garment of "traditional Japan," the kimono is in fact a vibrant part of Japanese modernity, playing an integral role in literature and film throughout the twentieth century. Reading the Kimono in Twentieth-Century Japanese Literature and Film is the first extended study to offer new ways of interpreting textual and visual narratives through "kimono language"--what these garments communicate within their literary, historical, and cultural contexts. Kimonos on the page and screen do much more than create verisimilitude or function as one-dimensional symbols. They go beyond simply indicating the wearer's age, gender, class, and taste; as eloquent, heterogeneous object...
Serizawa
Serizawa Keisuke (1895-1984) was one of the greatest artists of 20th-century Japan. This book presents Serizawa's artistic biography in detail using the finest examples of his work from leading Japanese collections.
Turning Point
Japan's brief but dramatic Momoyama period (1573-1615) witnessed the struggles of a handful of ambitious warlords for control of the long-splintered country and finally the emergence of a united Japan. This was also an era of dynamic cultural development in which the feudal lords sponsored lavish, innovative arts to proclaim their newly acquired power. One such art was a ceramic ware known as Oribe, whose mysterious sudden appearance and rise in popularity are explored in this book. Ceramics are closely connected to the tea ceremony and central to Japanese culture. In this context Oribe wares represented a unique and major development, since they were the easiest Japanese ceramics to carry e...
Daitokuji
The Zen Buddhist monastery Daitokuji in Kyoto has long been revered as a cloistered meditation centre, a repository of art treasures, and a wellspring of the "Zen aesthetic." Gregory Levine's Daitokuji unsettles these conventional notions with groundbreaking inquiry into the significant and surprising visual and social identities of sculpture, painting, and calligraphy associated with this fourteenth-century monastery and its enduring monastic and lay communities. The book begins with a study of Zen portraiture at Daitokuji that reveals the precariousness of portrait likeness; the face that gazes out from an abbot's painting or statue may not be who we expect it to be or submit quietly to in...
Faded and Threadbare Historic Textiles and their Role in Houses Open to the Public
Many historic houses that open to the public in England and Wales - particularly those owned by the National Trust - preserve their contents rather than restore them to a particular period. The former owners of these houses often retained objects from various periods and this layering of history produces interiors that look aged and patinated. Although the reason for this preservation and lack of fashionable renewable can be attributed to declining economic fortunes in the twentieth century, there are many examples of families practising this method of homemaking over a much longer period. Taking National Trust properties as its central focus, this book examines three interlocking themes to ...
Kimono Now
From the refined homes of Tokyo to the nightclubs of Kyoto; from gangster chic to Harajuku street style; from ateliers and catwalks to city sidewalks and religious festivals--this book shows how the kimono has continued to be one of Japan's most exciting wardrobe elements. Interviews with important industry figures, including clothing manufacturers and fashion designers, reveal how this traditional dress, with its simple and elegant form and timeless textile production methods, is as relevant today as ever.
Kimono Design
Kimono Design: An Introduction to Textiles and Patterns uses hundreds of photographs and a wealth of information on colors, fabrics and embellishments to paint a portrait of Japanese culture, art and thought. Lavish classical patterns, sweeping scenes, and the many motifs that have been woven, dyed, painted or embroidered into these textiles reveal a reflectiveness, a sense of humor, and an appreciation of exquisite beauty that is uniquely Japanese. Organized according to motifs traditionally associated with each season of the year, Kimono Design interprets the kimono's special language as expressed in depictions of: Flowers and grasses Birds and other animals Symbols of power, luck and prestige Land-and-seascapes scenes from literature, history and daily life scenes of travel and the Japanese concept of other lands and many others… Extensive notes on all the motifs demonstrate how the kimono reflects changing times and a sense of the timeless. Information on jewelry, hairpins and other accessories is scattered throughout to give a fuller sense of the Japanese art of dress. This is a volume that Japanophiles, historians, artists and designers will all cherish.
Envisioning the Tale of Genji
Bringing together scholars from across the world, Haruo Shirane presents a fascinating portrait of The Tale of Genji's reception and reproduction over the past thousand years. The essays examine the canonization of the work from the late Heian through the medieval, Edo, Meiji, Taisho, Showa, and Heisei periods, revealing its profound influence on a variety of genres and fields, including modern nation building. They also consider parody, pastiche, and re-creation of the text in various popular and mass media. Since the Genji was written by a woman for female readers, contributors also take up the issue of gender and cultural authority, looking at the novel's function as a symbol of Heian court culture and as an important tool in women's education. Throughout the volume, scholars discuss achievements in visualization, from screen painting and woodblock prints to manga and anime. Taking up such recurrent themes as cultural nostalgia, eroticism, and gender, this book is the most comprehensive history of the reception of The Tale of Genji to date, both in the country of its origin and throughout the world.
Gender, Costume, Textile, Technique
This book, a unique contribution to the field of kimono and Japan-related clothing studies, challenges uncritical readings of clothing from the lives of Japanese women and cultural representations of women wearing these clothes. Chapters ground understandings of clothing, including kimono, in the lived experience of different groups of women in modern Japan. Also discussing cosplay outside Japan, the collection argues that items worn by women are produced and consumed in a gendered and highly politicised socio-historical environment. Examining, for example, women’s recent renewed enthusiasm for kimono, in addition to representations of monpe, kimono and other attire in film and narrative, the book includes three new translations of clothing commentary by women writers from Japan. Contributors are: Tomoko Aoyama, Yasuko Claremont, Sheila Cliffe, Barbara Hartley, Helen Kilpatrick, Emerald King, Machiko Iwahashi, Komashaku Kimi, Rio Otomo, Sata Ineko, Jennifer Scott, and Shirasu Masako.
