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Prêt-à-Porter, Paris and Women
In the first critical history of French ready-made fashion, Alexis Romano examines an array of cultural sources, including surviving garments, fashion magazines, film, photography and interviews, to weave together previously disparate historical narratives. The resulting volume – Prêt-à-Porter: Paris and Women – situates the ready-made in wider cultural discourses of art, design, urbanism, technology and international policy. Through a close study of fashion magazines, including Vogue and Elle, Romano reveals how the French ready-made and the genre of fashion photography in France developed in tandem. Analyses of representations of space, women and prêt-à-porter in such magazines – alongside other cultural ephemera such as contemporary film, documentary photography and family photographs – demonstrate that popular conceptions of fashion and modernity shifted in the period 1945-68. By connecting national and personal histories, Prêt-à-Porter: Paris and Women reveals the importance of the ready-made to broader narratives of postwar reconstruction, national identity, gender and international dialogue.
Mood of the Moment
An exploration of fashion designer Gaby Aghion's life, career, and legacy at the French fashion house Chloé As imagined by the company's founder, Gaby Aghion (1921-2014), the sophisticated, romantic, and glamorous designs of Chloé have captured the energy and aspirations of generations of women since Aghion designed her first collection in 1952. This sumptuously illustrated book centers Chloé and Aghion within the cultural arena and crystallizes a major transition in the postwar Parisian fashion industry, from haute couture to prêt-à-porter. Aghion defined Chloé as a brand of luxury ready-to-wear clothing combining high-end materials and savoir faire with light shapes for active women....
Japanese Fashion Designers
Over the past 40 years, Japanese designers have led the way in aligning fashion with art and ideology, as well as addressing identity and social politics through dress. They have demonstrated that both creative and commercial enterprise is possible in today's international fashion industry, and have refused to compromise their ideals, remaining autonomous and independent in their design, business affairs and distribution methods. The inspirational Miyake, Yamamoto and Kawakubo have gained worldwide respect and admiration and have influenced a generation of designers and artists alike. Based on twelve years of research, this book provides a richly detailed and uniquely comprehensive view of t...
Hair Revisited
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Modus
This publication marks the launch of 'MODUS': a first step towards a network for expanded fashion practice. The central thread is a glossary of practices - a developing lexicon of habits, methods, rules, techniques, repetitions and actions - that together, points towards a shared manual for expanded practice. Into this glossary four essays are woven from academics and practitioners revealing questions and challenges as well as suggesting approaches or perspectives that expanded fashion practices might offer. We hope that this document be read not as a definitive explanation but as a live provocation, that it might be used as a tool to facilitate conversations between the practitioners working in this expanded field and writers/theorists from other disciplines ranging from sociology, cultural and critical theory to politics and economics. We invite you to engage with it as a working model: add notes in the spaces, highlight and draw connections between ideas. It is a blueprint for new ways of thinking, being and doing fashion which forms the foundation of the MODUS project.
Fashion Projects
Fashion Projects: 15 Years of Fashion in Dialogue anthologizes the New York–based journal Fashion Projects. The book is an index of a particular time within the fashion studies landscape and the attendant fields of fashion writing, fashion curation, and critical fashion practice during which the field witnessed a meteoric rise. The long-running non-profit journal Fashion Projects was described by The Paris Review as “a journal devoted to critical discourse in fashion,” Fashion Projects was founded in New York in 2005 as a zine. It gradually morphed into a larger journal straddling the academic and general interest worlds, with international distribution and an ardent readership. It ser...
Fashion Forward
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Mondrian’s Dress
An extraordinary look at how the style of Piet Mondrian’s abstract paintings was posthumously appropriated by 1960s fashion, Pop art, and consumer culture. Yves Saint Laurent’s 1965 Mondrian dresses are among the twentieth century’s most celebrated and recognizable fashions, but the context of their creation involves much more than meets the eye. In Mondrian’s Dress, Nancy J. Troy and Ann Marguerite Tartsinis offer a fresh approach to the coupling of Piet Mondrian’s interwar paintings with Saint Laurent’s couture designs by exposing the rampant merchandising and commodification that these works experienced in the 1960s. The authors situate the consolidation of Saint Laurent’s f...
Orthodoxies and Heterodoxies in Early Modern German Culture
Interdisciplinary essays on early modern Germany that address orthodoxy and its challenges in religion, politics, and the arts. Confronting the transformation of normative canons after the Reformation, the essays investigate authority and knowledge in an era of shifting cultural foundations.
