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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introdu...
This book is intended as an introduction to classical water wave theory for the college senior or first year graduate student. The material is self-contained; almost all mathematical and engineering concepts are presented or derived in the text, thus making the book accessible to practicing engineers as well.The book commences with a review of fluid mechanics and basic vector concepts. The formulation and solution of the governing boundary value problem for small amplitude waves are developed and the kinematic and pressure fields for short and long waves are explored. The transformation of waves due to variations in depth and their interactions with structures are derived. Wavemaker theories...
The science and technology of coastal and ocean engineering are closely related to harbour and fishery engineering, because they share a common basic knowledge. However, whereas various publications of coastal engineering, harbour engineering, and ocean engineering have described just the knowledge in their own respective fields, an interrelated and systematic presentation linking them together has yet to be attempted. This book is the first attempt to systematically combine the fields of coastal, ocean, harbour, and fishery engineering from an engineering viewpoint backed by hydrodynamics. Understanding the interaction of waves with structures and sediment, and predicting the associated res...
This book contains more than 300 papers presented at the 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, held in Cardiff, Wales, in July 2002. It is divided into five parts: coastal waves; nearshore currents, swash, and long waves; coastal structures; sediment transport; and coastal morphology, beach nourishment, and coastal management. The papers cover a broad range of topics, including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. Coastal Engineering 2002 provides engineers, scientists, and planners with state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.
This proceedings contains papers presented at the 31st International Conference on Coastal Engineering, which has held in Hamburg, Germany (31 August - 5 September 2008). The proceeding is divided into five parts: Waves; Long Waves, Nearshore Currents, and Swash; Sediment Transport and Morphology; Coastal Management, Environment, and Risk; and Coastal Structures. The papers cover a broad range of topics including theory, numerical and physical modeling, field measurements, case studies, design, and management. Coastal Engineering 2008 provides coastal engineers, scientists, and planners, with state-of-the-art information on coastal engineering and coastal processes.