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Dress and Ideology
Dress and fashion are powerful visual means of communicating ideology, whether political, social or religious. From the communist values of equality, simplicity and solidarity exemplified in the Mao suit to the myriad of fashion protests of feminists such as French revolutionary women's demand to wear trousers, dress can symbolize ideological orthodoxy as well as revolt. With contributions from a wide range of international scholars, this book presents the first scholarly analysis of dress and ideology through accessible case studies. Chapters are organized thematically and explore dress in relation to topics including nation, identity, religion, politics and utopias, across an impressive chronological reach from antiquity to the present day. Dress & Ideology will appeal to students and scholars of fashion, history, sociology, cultural studies, politics and gender studies.
Beyond Vanity
From the award-winning author of Dressing Up, a riveting and diverse history of women’s hair that reestablishes the cultural power of hairdressing in nineteenth-century America. In the nineteenth century, the complex cultural meaning of hair was not only significant, but it could also impact one’s place in society. After the Civil War, hairdressing was also a growing profession and the hair industry a mainstay of local, national, and international commerce. In Beyond Vanity, Elizabeth Block expands the nascent field of hair studies by restoring women’s hair as a cultural site of meaning in the early United States. With a special focus on the places and spaces in which the hair industry...
Revelations of Ideology: Apocalyptic Class Politics in Early Roman Palestine
In Revelations of Ideology, G. Anthony Keddie proposes a new theory of the social function of Judaean apocalyptic texts produced in Early Roman Palestine (63 BCE–70 CE). In contrast to evaluations of Jewish and early Christian apocalyptic texts as “literature of the oppressed” or literature of resistance against empire, Keddie demonstrates that scribes produced apocalyptic texts to advance ideologies aimed at self-legitimation. By revealing that their opponents constituted an exploitative class, scribes generated apocalyptic ideologies that situated them in the same exploited class as their constituents. Through careful historical and ideological criticism of the Psalms of Solomon, Parables of Enoch, Testament of Moses, and Q source, Keddie identifies an internally diverse tradition of apocalyptic class rhetoric in late Second Temple Judaism.
Fashion and Tourism
Fashion and tourism have common structures and similarities on many fronts. Both phenomena and their operations have been through their ‘mass’ cycles, currently seeking alternative ways of expression and development. Both industries are also important business sectors globally.
Living the Good Life
Eighteenth-century consumers of the Qing and Ottoman empires had access to an increasingly diverse array of goods, from home furnishings to fashionable clothes and new foodstuffs. While this tendency was of shorter duration and intensity in the Ottoman world, some urbanites of the sultans’ realm did enjoy silks, coffee, and Chinese porcelain. By contrast, a vibrant consumer culture flourished in Qing China, where many consumers flaunted their fur coats and indulged in gourmet dining. Living the Good Life explores how goods furthered the expansion of social networks, alliance-building between rulers and regional elites, and the expression of elite, urban, and gender identities. The scholarship in the present volume highlights the recently emerging “material turn” in Qing and Ottoman historiographies and provides a framework for future research. Contributors: Arif Bilgin, Michael G. Chang, Edhem Eldem, Colette Establet, Antonia Finnane, Selim Karahasanoglu, Lai Hui-min, Amanda Phillips, Hedda Reindl-Kiel, Martina Siebert, Su Te-Cheng, Joanna Waley-Cohen, Wang Dagang, Wu Jen-shu, Yıldız Yılmaz, and Yun Yan.
Maternal Breast-Feeding and Its Substitutes in Nineteenth-Century French Art
In Maternal Breast-Feeding and Its Substitutes in Nineteenth-Century French Art, Gal Ventura investigates the ideological concepts behind the endorsement of maternal breast-feeding in modern Western society. Using diverse visual and textual sources and surveying hundreds of artworks produced from the time of the French Revolution to the beginning of the twentieth century, Ventura reveals the historical, political, religious, and economic factors that shaped the representations of breast-feeding and its substitutes in French art. She thus sheds light on the changing attitudes toward maternal breast-feeding in nineteenth-century France, which have had a considerable impact on the glorification of breast-feeding in the Western world to this very day.
Eating, Building, Dwelling
The intricate relationship between food, city and architecture, spanning from ancient civilizations to the present, serves as a focal point for interdisciplinary discourse. This book delves into a diverse set of cases throughout history in which processes related to food significantly influenced architectural or urban designs. This book delineates three spatial levels — city, home and intermediate spaces — illuminating their dynamic interplay within the construct of a continually evolving “food space." Featuring 12 contributions from Mediterranean Europe, this publication explores historical legacies and contemporary challenges. Divided into urban-territorial and architectural scales, it offers nuanced insights into urban dynamics, domestic life and gastronomic tourism. Supported by a prestigious introductory study, this research advances a comprehensive understanding of food's role in shaping urban environments. Through the chapters of this book, those interested in cultural studies of food, urban history and architecture will be able to reflect on our relationship with food and its processes, and how it affects the way we live and design our cities and their architectures.
Global Trade and the Transformation of Consumer Cultures
Charts the rise of consumerism and the new cosmopolitan material cultures that took shape across the globe from 1500 to 1820.
Defenders of the Faith
The Emancipation of European Jewry during the nineteenth century led to conflict between tradition and modernity, creating a chasm that few believed could be bridged. Unsurprisingly, the emergence of modern traditionalism was fraught with obstacles. The essays published in this collection eloquently depict the passion underlying the disparate views, the particular areas of vexing confrontation and the hurdles faced by champions of tradition. The author identifies and analyzes the many areas of sociological and religious tension that divided the competing factions, including synagogue innovation, circumcision, intermarriage, military service and many others. With compelling writing and clear, articulate style, this illuminating work provides keen insight into the history and development of the various streams of Judaism and the issues that continue to divide them in contemporary times.
Essential Essays for the Study of the Military in First-Century Palestine
Though the Roman Empire has been a hot topic within New Testament studies in the twenty-first century, its military aspect has—strangely—been almost entirely neglected. This volume will fill that lacuna by reprinting pivotal, but difficult to access, essays on the topic from the past forty years. The book will help bring scholars up to speed on what Roman military experts have been saying on the matter and give a sense for key developments within the field over the last forty years. The contents of this book include a variety of pivotal essays, though most are difficult to find without access to a major research library.
